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Do's and Don'ts: Shirts
The most important thing I’ve learnt about style? It’s all about attention to detail. And I’ve filled this guide with some of the most important details I’ve learnt about dressing well.
Now we all hate being told what to do. It’s part of being a man. Therefore I’d like to impress that the following style tips are mere guidelines rather than stiff rules. After all, it’s the overall ensemble that’s important.
–Nicholas Charles Tyrwhitt Wheeler
DO know your collar size. The collar fits well when you can comfortably fit your index and middle finger side by side between your neck and collar.
DO know your shirt fabrics. Sea Island cotton is light and silky so it’s ideal for formal occasions. Poplin is a classic cotton weave that is crisp and fine for everyday wear. A twill weave is textured, more casual and best worn with a chunky woven tie.
DO tuck your shirt in. The exception to the rule is when it’s a casual shirt with a straight cut bottom hem that hangs above the hip bone.
DO buy one or two classic white shirts. A wardrobe essential, team with a suit, blazer or even jeans and it will always look smart. When the collar starts to yellow, replace it pronto.
DON’T skimp on the thread count of the fabric. The higher the number, the finer the fabric. Two-fold 120 or two-fold 140 weight cotton is ideal for good quality business shirts.
DON’T wear an ill-fitting shirt. Tall and lean men look best in slim fit shirts with cutaway collars, more rotund builds suit classic fit shirts and athletic builds look good in slim fit shirts.
DON’T choose the wrong collar for your face shape. Classic collars narrow wide faces and cutaway collars counterbalance slim faces.
DON’T clash your patterns. A general rule of thumb is to keep your shirt and tie patterns different scales. The pattern on your tie should never be more noticeable than the one on your shirt.
DON’T allow creases to spoil your look. When ironing, start with the collar, then the yoke (the material at the back of the shirt below the collar), then the sleeves. Finish with the main body of the shirt and hang straight away.