Know your collar cuts



There's more to the cut of your collar than meets the eye. Here's what you need to know, and how you can use it to your advantage


Know your shirt collar cuts

  • Shirt: point collarPoint collar

    The most popular turn-down collar style of all, the point collar is long established as the neutral failsafe to be found on the vast majority of formal shirts worldwide. With its points (the collar tips) reasonably close together it tends to elongate the face - even more so in narrower versions where the points are closer together and point lengths even deeper. So this collar is particularly flattering if you have a rounder, fuller face and really best avoided by those with thin faces. Always smarter and snappier if worn with a tie, but you don't have to if you really don't want to.

     
  • Shirt: cutaway collarCutaway collar

    The cutaway, or spread, collar has the collar points much further apart, exposing more of the shirt and leaving room for big fat tie knots like the classic Windsor. The classic cutaway style has been a bespoke favourite dating back through the classic Golden Hollywood era and extending to the Royal Family, so you're in good company. The exact dimensions can vary dramatically in bespoke circles, but essentially the wider the 'spread' - the distance between the collar points - the more this will flatter and reproportion a thin face. Best avoided by rounder faces unless you're planning on stepping out sans tie.

     
  • Shirt: button-down collarButton-down collar

    We're thinking this one's pretty obvious from its name, but just so there's no confusion, this collar - mainly seen on more casual shirts - sports small buttonholes on the tips of each point corresponding to buttons on each side of the shirt front. Simple. Cool historical fact: the button-down is actually an Americanised adaptation of the shirts worn by English polo players early last century - the buttons prevented the collars flapping into their faces - and popularised as a 'preppy' look in the US in the 50s. It still retains that youthful all-American vibe and you can happily leave your tie at home without a second thought. Don't even think of leaving the collar unbuttoned or matching with a formal double-breasted jacket though. Big no-nos.

     
  • Shirt: wing collarWing collar

    Basically the wing collar shirt is the one you wear with a dinner jacket. It has a short collar with no turn-down and two wings pressed to stick out horizontally that can either tuck behind a bow tie or face out over it. Pretty much only to be worn with the whole formal morning or evening dress ensemble (add a cummerbund if you're feeling particularly daring). Try the undone bow tie/open collar look at the end of the evening if you want to go for that Tom Ford rakish look.

     
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